After a week in the dark, I admit that it feels good to connect to the digital world again! Our expectation that large cities will have wi-fi everywhere, not so... This is not the USA, and that's a good new experience. So I will take this 30 mins of connection to rattle off the memorables from the last week.
Arrived In Bologna after riding through freezing fog for two days...eerie. The trees, power lines, fences, everything appeared that an instantaneous ice age had swept through Northern Italy, ice-fog literally hanging from every surface.
We unfortunately do not have the budget or the logistical capabilities to absorb all that the great Italian cities have to offer. While bike touring is, in my opinion, the best way to see the world, you must constantly be aware of where your bici is, and keep a close eye on your bags in the cities. We are not willing to pay 20 euro a night on a hostel, and pitching our tent in the city park is still a bit taboo. The rural, rustic life is the best and most affordable in bici.
As is common in the world of cycling, knee pain has plagued me thus far. Cyclists know that it sometimes takes weeks to find that perfect position on the bike to avoid knee pain while pedaling hours a day. Considering the bitter cold, my knee issue, and the reality that Chris and I have places to be in March, we chose to boogy southward on train. This plan worked nicely! We are now 250 km further south, 20 deg warmer, and the rest day did well for my knee.
In between the then and now, we have slept in a chruch basement (huge thanks to the awesome folks of Ca Morosini), been hosted by friars at the friary in Imola (thanks for the prosciutto guys!), been fed a free family meal in Rastignano, and were treated like local celebrities in Poggio Renatico. All of the warmth and hospitality has been a huge morale boost in these days of tough miles and numb extremities. Gratitude. In 6 nights we have only tented out one night.
Our honest question to the locals each evening has been "where can we camp and be safe?".... That seems to directly translate to "house us, feed us, and teach us all about your lifestyle" because we have been overwhelmed by unsolicited kindness at every turn. (Add this term to your phrase books) "dove possiamo campeggiare?" I haven't looked in a mirror in a week, but judging from the look of my partner (hottie Chris!) and our hosts willingness to care for us, we must look weathered. Haha!
Today was an amazing day on the bike. Rolling hills through grape vineyards, Adriatic Sea to the left, huge snow-capped Appennini Mtns to the right. 10 min climbs to little sun-bronzed villages built into the sides of the hills. Oranges growing within arms reach of the road. Winding decents into river valleys, actually cooling us from the heat of the climb. Very nice to be without stocking caps and coats. My knee was better today, and with a clutch pasta lunch and Internet connection, we are full of momentum once again.
Lanciano, Abruzzo. Great town!
Missing you all! Your words of encouragement help a lot! Pedal on... With love.
CM
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
Life On a Bike and a $10 (euro) Bill
Each mile passed makes it feel more like an adventure. Our goodbyes were said, not always easily, but the excitement of the horizon soon emerged.
Airport terminals are colorful places. In the same realm as food markets, they show the true personality of society and culture. Ultimately, every traveler is in the same boat; shuffling through security lines barefoot, catching up on their journaling, sleeping, reading, wrestling crosswords, or simply thinking.
Thinking gets done during travel. About the place you left, the place you're going, and the people who connect it all. Life is put into perspective. You are able to push back and appreciate.
Being apart brings people together. Each time I leave the people I love, my feelings grow stronger. The time spent physically together is more special, for sure. Soak those moments of togetherness.
Send off exhasution with endless thirst for more, more life, more learning, more loving. Feed your curiosity. Tenaciously live!
Day 4 and so far right on budget. 10 euro per day. The world's best cappucino = 1.30 euro. Fresh, homemade croissant = 1 euro. Prosciutto and mozzarella panino = 1.20 euro. This will be easy!
Until the 3,000 mile bike trip begins Calories, calories, calories.
So far in 3 days we have backpacked up Mt. Grappa, slept in an unheated mtn lodge, partied with the mountain folk on their annual winter festa in the Rifugio (mountain hut). We were treated like guests of honor. Fed homegrown olives soaked in salt, peperoncini, and herbs. Local wine from grapes grown in the back yard. Blueberry Grappa. Whoa! Alcohol content unknown.
We hitchhiked back to town after emerging from the bush. 75 year old Italian signore who spoke such thick dialect of the old language I understood 5%. Ha! He never stopped telling us stories the entire ride. He was pure joy. His parting words..."Bravi!"
The bikes have been retrieved from all corners of Europe, and now we are due ragazzi e due bici! (two guys two bikes) Plan to leave tomorrow, heading South toward the distant Sicily. 700+ miles. The locals all think we're crazy, riding and camping in Winter. My answer "We're from Iowa!" They love our gusto, and everyone we meet wants to be on the team. Giving us snacks, pats on the backs, and tips on the Italian landscape to come. If anyone understands our mission, it's the old timers in the bike shop. They were us once. In their primes. Tackling any challenge. As quickly as they jokingly give us a hard time and say we're nuts, they jump into serious conversation and analysis about our gear, our route, our bikes.
Big shout-out to Zamar Sport bike shop in Castelfranco, Veneto. Luciano is an owner who still gets his hands dirty and lives tenaciously. A pillar of fortitude in the local cycling culture. Head mechanic, Michele, is very thorough and one of the most savvy mechanics I have seen. They love the fact that their work is contributing on such a grand adventure. You rock guys!
Of course, I wouldn't know Zamar without Ron Palazzo, my cycling mentor. Thank you Renato! Pedale forte!
I wouldn't be here, embarking on this life-changing journey, without you all. Friends, family, acquaintences, and total strangers. For it is the people of the world that drive me to go out and experience it firsthand. Grazie!
Airport terminals are colorful places. In the same realm as food markets, they show the true personality of society and culture. Ultimately, every traveler is in the same boat; shuffling through security lines barefoot, catching up on their journaling, sleeping, reading, wrestling crosswords, or simply thinking.
Thinking gets done during travel. About the place you left, the place you're going, and the people who connect it all. Life is put into perspective. You are able to push back and appreciate.
Being apart brings people together. Each time I leave the people I love, my feelings grow stronger. The time spent physically together is more special, for sure. Soak those moments of togetherness.
Send off exhasution with endless thirst for more, more life, more learning, more loving. Feed your curiosity. Tenaciously live!
Day 4 and so far right on budget. 10 euro per day. The world's best cappucino = 1.30 euro. Fresh, homemade croissant = 1 euro. Prosciutto and mozzarella panino = 1.20 euro. This will be easy!
Until the 3,000 mile bike trip begins Calories, calories, calories.
So far in 3 days we have backpacked up Mt. Grappa, slept in an unheated mtn lodge, partied with the mountain folk on their annual winter festa in the Rifugio (mountain hut). We were treated like guests of honor. Fed homegrown olives soaked in salt, peperoncini, and herbs. Local wine from grapes grown in the back yard. Blueberry Grappa. Whoa! Alcohol content unknown.
We hitchhiked back to town after emerging from the bush. 75 year old Italian signore who spoke such thick dialect of the old language I understood 5%. Ha! He never stopped telling us stories the entire ride. He was pure joy. His parting words..."Bravi!"
The bikes have been retrieved from all corners of Europe, and now we are due ragazzi e due bici! (two guys two bikes) Plan to leave tomorrow, heading South toward the distant Sicily. 700+ miles. The locals all think we're crazy, riding and camping in Winter. My answer "We're from Iowa!" They love our gusto, and everyone we meet wants to be on the team. Giving us snacks, pats on the backs, and tips on the Italian landscape to come. If anyone understands our mission, it's the old timers in the bike shop. They were us once. In their primes. Tackling any challenge. As quickly as they jokingly give us a hard time and say we're nuts, they jump into serious conversation and analysis about our gear, our route, our bikes.
Big shout-out to Zamar Sport bike shop in Castelfranco, Veneto. Luciano is an owner who still gets his hands dirty and lives tenaciously. A pillar of fortitude in the local cycling culture. Head mechanic, Michele, is very thorough and one of the most savvy mechanics I have seen. They love the fact that their work is contributing on such a grand adventure. You rock guys!
Of course, I wouldn't know Zamar without Ron Palazzo, my cycling mentor. Thank you Renato! Pedale forte!
I wouldn't be here, embarking on this life-changing journey, without you all. Friends, family, acquaintences, and total strangers. For it is the people of the world that drive me to go out and experience it firsthand. Grazie!
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