I now understand why Spain has always captivated so many travelers, writers, songwriters, and athletes alike. The weather has been nothing but immaculate since our arrival. 65 degrees and sunny by day, 40's and crispy star-filled skies by night. Aside from a few (very) cold days on the bike in Italy, I am beginning to think we have successfully sidestepped winter altogether... A new idea for a Midwestern boy accustomed to months of bravely bundling through the thick of it each year.
The landscape reminds me of a mixture of Southern California, Utah, and Colorado (based on my limited exposure to places around the globe). The rocky hills, full of caves, sharp spires, and sheer cliffs hold a vegetation like the desert. It never rains! Yet from nearly any high point you are struck by the open aqua blueness of the Mediterrenean. Sweet contrast that seems only appropriate in sun-drenched Costa Blanca. One crop that flourishes here, and a delicious treat of taste, smell, and sight, are the almond trees blossoming on every hillside terrace. Row after row of white-pink petals soften the parched, brown soil all around.
We have incorporated the local almonds into every snack of the day, along with the other tasty Spanish treats; figs, dates, oranges, jamon (cured ham that rivals Italian prosciutto), chorizo (spanish sausage cured with peppers and herbs), and cafe solo which is espresso just slightly bigger than Italian espresso, moving us a little closer back to American coffee.
Living at a climber's ranch full of English outdoors people has not exposed us to as much local culture as we were used to on the road, but we are learning just as much. I have learned much about the UK and the cultures of the different regions from London and Oxford to Scotland to Northern Ireland and Wales. I really want to visit more of the UK someday, especially to check out the mountaineering and climbing scene. I have had the privilege to get out climbing with groups of folks from the Orange House, all with far more experience on rock than I. I am definitely holding my own and loving pulling on rock again, but the climbing routes here are longer and more complex than many in Iowa. My new climbing friends still enjoy hearing about the Midwestern crags that we romp on in Iowa!
Remember your first stage fright experience? I was reminded of the feeling this weekend while I successfully killed the engine of a rental stick-shift Fiat 500, at a red light, during rush hour...5 times in a row. Honking, hollering, the whole bit. I had driven stick before in the USA, but never in hilly Spanish cities where the streets are half as wide and every street is a one way. What a trial by fire! By the end of the weekend, I had become fluid in my clutch-control, and whipping through roundabouts and navigating the backstreets and country roads of Spain was a blast! It turns out that renting a car is cheaper than even taking a bus in most cases, perfect for finding freedom and mobility on a budget. Ashley and I took advantage of the widened horizon for the weekend and road-tripped daily to climbing crags, windy mountain roads, hiking trails in national parks, and Saturday outdoor markets which resembled an episode of American Pickers on full display. You name it, somebody's selling it... Old, new, local, foreign, cheap, valuable. Fun to shuffle through the throngs of people and smell frying churros (memories of funnel cakes at the fair), but our favorites were the huge expanses of wilderness where you could hear nothing but the wind.
One hike took us to the top of Puig Campana, the second highest point in the region at almost 5000 ft. In just under three hours we summited from almost a sea-level start, hard work! The visual effect from the peak was incredible, comparable to the feeling on top of a 14'er in the Rockies (peak of 14,000 ft or higher). In the 360 degree panorama was 80 miles of coastline on which the sea looked fake, like a painting with water colors. Inland was more layers of hills, mountains, and rocky outcrops, funneling into valleys of vineyards and almond orchards. The descent is always equally testing, as you must focus on every single foot placement to avoid a rolled ankle, or worse, a slip n slide on loose scree down the mountain. We rewarded ourselves for completing a "black route" trail in 5 1/2 hrs (just like ski slopes, green=easiest, blue=media, black=expert) with tapas and happy hour at the local tap in Finestrat.
I am tramming into Alicante once per week to tutor a 14 year old caballero named Nestor. We hang out and speak English, mostly dribbling the soccer ball back and forth in the park. He is sharp as a tack, and understands everything I say in English. His own speech is improving everyday, and I'm sure he will be fluent within a few years with or without my help. But I enjoy learning from him just as much, so the benefit is mutual for sure. The hourly rate helps pay for date night and the tram to and fro. Great find! A majority of Spanish parents are looking for English speakers to be conversation buddies with their children, and willing to pay by the hour. It's cool that we can find odds and ends even while traveling.
Another beautiful sunny day has passed, new bushwhack running trails have been discovered, the climbers are returning from the crags, and I smell food from the outdoor communal kitchen... Likely the famous chef Chris Moore whipping up a Mediterrenean standard for us. Props to the hand that feeds, he will be missed upon his departure.
Live well, and whenever possible, think big about making dreams become reality. Tis all in the hands of the dreamer to make his journey progress.
Thanks and love,
CM
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
Oranges and a House
When "ramble-traveling" (constantly moving with no binding itinerary other than the natural rise and fall of the sun), things are only remembered in long chunks of time... Your brain starts defining the timing of events in broad terms like "during the cold spell with fog" or "that sunny day on the mountain road" or "before we met Vincenzo". I am never able to recall "oh yeah, last Tuesday!" or "two weeks ago we did x y and Z". Individual stories do, however, come out of the woodwork in vivid detail once a spark is created. Luckily, traveling with a partner allows you to bounce the memories back and forth between you to recreate each scene to the T. The details of the memories are so searing and real because while living the ramble-travel, you are fully immersed in each moment (at least that's the goal), your brain subconsciously lapping up each new turn in the road with amazing childlike curiosity.
I highly recommend ramble-travel anytime you can break away and commit to simply blowing with the wind. Sure, all the famous sites may not be fit in without a well-planned itinerary, but millions of people have seen the famous sites. Free yourself to take the opportunities that are opened up when you dont have a train, plane, or show to catch. Like being invited to make pizza dough with a 4th generation Italian chef because you were chatting him up and had time to kill. the rambling can be merely a week or a long weekend, or even one day, but allowing yourself this "loosy goosy" approach to travel can often pay off with truly unique experiences that you will never forget.
An example of this happened for us when we rolled into Palermo, Sicily completely unannounced and without a plan on a rainy night (the 8th in a row for us). Our goal to take a ship to valencia, Spain was trounced when we arrived at the port to be informed that the one ship of the week was cancelled due to dangerously stormy seas...rare for such a big ship. So the scramble began, and we ended up at a lovely hostel for a wonderful 12 euro per night where we made some new friends from Norway who were studying there. As we checked out the night life of the cool port town of Palermo with our new Northern friends, we realized that the misfortune of a cancelled ship turned into a sweet chance. Take a day's tour of the legendary Palermo with a "behind the scenes" city tour designed around the true heartbeat of the city and culture, not simply the tourist sites. We learned all about the melting pot flavor of Palermo, centered between northern Africa, Italy, and the rest of Europe, and vitally important to thousands of years of commerce in the region. We also got to talk straight about the Mafia's involvement in Sicily, which essentially governs itself autonomously from the Italian government. Is the Mafia actually real and powerful here? Why do you think the government of a powerful top-ten worldwide nation would leave Sicily alone and let it rule itself?? Yes, the Mafia is present, and are involved in everything from world politics to providing water and other utilities to Sicilian citizens... Just to name one region.
We finished our time in Italy just in just to miss 6ft of snow in some areas as far south as Rome!" The 60 year winter" they are calling it. The plan to continue pedaling north up the Tyrrenian sea coast after Sicily had to be changed... With half of Italy shut down for days in paralyzingly snow and cold, and with my knee giving me sure signs that I better rest it and evaluate my body mechanics before riding more long days, we looked to the weather radar for the most consistent spot for sun in the Mediterrenean... Costa Blanca Spain (Valencia and Alicante receive 320 days of sun per year)
Traveling long distances by boat at 25 mph truly gives you the feeling that you are changing your surroundings drastically. You chug along in the ocean blue, rolling with the waves, only occasionally passing a blip of land on the horizon...a remote, rocky island maybe, before you arrive in a completely new culture on a new day. A combination of two boat rides , 20 hrs each, brought us to Barcelona, Spain. Our second boat ride, we were 2 of 11 total passengers on a huge 9-story retired cruise ship. The experience was funny, as the drained pools and hot tubs, abandoned show-tune auditoriums, and deck-top sun loungers tell the story of a more prosperous time in this boat's cruising days. We were blessed with a private cabin, complete with separate beds (quite new and refreshing for us), and a nice shower. I guess the shipping company felt for us, being 2 of 11, as we literally had a personal barista, piano dance hall, and friendly concierge at our service. Thanks crew!
We are now in an Oasis of rest, rejuvenation, and inspiration at the Orange House in Finestrat, Spain. The Orange House is an adventure ranch in the foothills of the rocky limestone cliffs famous in this area. The whole concept of the place centers around a community approach to active adventure.. everyone pitches in to keep up the superbly entertaining property which is equipped with guesthouses, cabins, live chickens who lay morning eggs, dozens of friendly dogs, delicious orange grove, communal kitchen, and local insight into the best places to bike, climb, hike, and rock out! Our contribution of a few hours of chores per day allows us use of it all free of charge, and separate, cozy tent spots in the orange grove. Breakfast in bed?? I can reach the days finest citrus from my tent door :) A whole tent to myself?? This is starting to sound like a luxury vacation all of a sudden.... Careful.
I am very excited to have found this bustling community of adventurers. We are among about 30 ramblers who are either paying guests here to rock climb the Spanish crags for a week, folks who liked this place so much they found themselves here for a decade or more, or like-minded young'ns like ourselves looking to adventure and stretch the euro.
The next chapter in our traveling cuisine schoolbook will surely include Spanish Iberico ham, aged for more than 2 years its own fat, paella dishes filled with daily catch and spices from the sea, and a new type of pastry that rivals even the Italian brioche of our past month. The first stop in Alicante at 6am this morning after an overnight bus of no sleep? The open air market of course, the #1 way to learn a culture is to walk the street market. Traveling with a chef in training is wonderful...I've really developed a deeper appreciation and understanding of good food and drink learning from Chris. And all on a bike bum budget! Brilliant! (as the English climbers would say here).
Special thanks to Ashley, who rolled out of bed at 4am to be our personal tour guide of her gorgeous city of study abroad.
While stationary for now, feel like the rambling fun is just beginning! Thanks to all you lovely people caring to read. :)
CM
I highly recommend ramble-travel anytime you can break away and commit to simply blowing with the wind. Sure, all the famous sites may not be fit in without a well-planned itinerary, but millions of people have seen the famous sites. Free yourself to take the opportunities that are opened up when you dont have a train, plane, or show to catch. Like being invited to make pizza dough with a 4th generation Italian chef because you were chatting him up and had time to kill. the rambling can be merely a week or a long weekend, or even one day, but allowing yourself this "loosy goosy" approach to travel can often pay off with truly unique experiences that you will never forget.
An example of this happened for us when we rolled into Palermo, Sicily completely unannounced and without a plan on a rainy night (the 8th in a row for us). Our goal to take a ship to valencia, Spain was trounced when we arrived at the port to be informed that the one ship of the week was cancelled due to dangerously stormy seas...rare for such a big ship. So the scramble began, and we ended up at a lovely hostel for a wonderful 12 euro per night where we made some new friends from Norway who were studying there. As we checked out the night life of the cool port town of Palermo with our new Northern friends, we realized that the misfortune of a cancelled ship turned into a sweet chance. Take a day's tour of the legendary Palermo with a "behind the scenes" city tour designed around the true heartbeat of the city and culture, not simply the tourist sites. We learned all about the melting pot flavor of Palermo, centered between northern Africa, Italy, and the rest of Europe, and vitally important to thousands of years of commerce in the region. We also got to talk straight about the Mafia's involvement in Sicily, which essentially governs itself autonomously from the Italian government. Is the Mafia actually real and powerful here? Why do you think the government of a powerful top-ten worldwide nation would leave Sicily alone and let it rule itself?? Yes, the Mafia is present, and are involved in everything from world politics to providing water and other utilities to Sicilian citizens... Just to name one region.
We finished our time in Italy just in just to miss 6ft of snow in some areas as far south as Rome!" The 60 year winter" they are calling it. The plan to continue pedaling north up the Tyrrenian sea coast after Sicily had to be changed... With half of Italy shut down for days in paralyzingly snow and cold, and with my knee giving me sure signs that I better rest it and evaluate my body mechanics before riding more long days, we looked to the weather radar for the most consistent spot for sun in the Mediterrenean... Costa Blanca Spain (Valencia and Alicante receive 320 days of sun per year)
Traveling long distances by boat at 25 mph truly gives you the feeling that you are changing your surroundings drastically. You chug along in the ocean blue, rolling with the waves, only occasionally passing a blip of land on the horizon...a remote, rocky island maybe, before you arrive in a completely new culture on a new day. A combination of two boat rides , 20 hrs each, brought us to Barcelona, Spain. Our second boat ride, we were 2 of 11 total passengers on a huge 9-story retired cruise ship. The experience was funny, as the drained pools and hot tubs, abandoned show-tune auditoriums, and deck-top sun loungers tell the story of a more prosperous time in this boat's cruising days. We were blessed with a private cabin, complete with separate beds (quite new and refreshing for us), and a nice shower. I guess the shipping company felt for us, being 2 of 11, as we literally had a personal barista, piano dance hall, and friendly concierge at our service. Thanks crew!
We are now in an Oasis of rest, rejuvenation, and inspiration at the Orange House in Finestrat, Spain. The Orange House is an adventure ranch in the foothills of the rocky limestone cliffs famous in this area. The whole concept of the place centers around a community approach to active adventure.. everyone pitches in to keep up the superbly entertaining property which is equipped with guesthouses, cabins, live chickens who lay morning eggs, dozens of friendly dogs, delicious orange grove, communal kitchen, and local insight into the best places to bike, climb, hike, and rock out! Our contribution of a few hours of chores per day allows us use of it all free of charge, and separate, cozy tent spots in the orange grove. Breakfast in bed?? I can reach the days finest citrus from my tent door :) A whole tent to myself?? This is starting to sound like a luxury vacation all of a sudden.... Careful.
I am very excited to have found this bustling community of adventurers. We are among about 30 ramblers who are either paying guests here to rock climb the Spanish crags for a week, folks who liked this place so much they found themselves here for a decade or more, or like-minded young'ns like ourselves looking to adventure and stretch the euro.
The next chapter in our traveling cuisine schoolbook will surely include Spanish Iberico ham, aged for more than 2 years its own fat, paella dishes filled with daily catch and spices from the sea, and a new type of pastry that rivals even the Italian brioche of our past month. The first stop in Alicante at 6am this morning after an overnight bus of no sleep? The open air market of course, the #1 way to learn a culture is to walk the street market. Traveling with a chef in training is wonderful...I've really developed a deeper appreciation and understanding of good food and drink learning from Chris. And all on a bike bum budget! Brilliant! (as the English climbers would say here).
Special thanks to Ashley, who rolled out of bed at 4am to be our personal tour guide of her gorgeous city of study abroad.
While stationary for now, feel like the rambling fun is just beginning! Thanks to all you lovely people caring to read. :)
CM
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