Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Oranges and a House

When "ramble-traveling" (constantly moving with no binding itinerary other than the natural rise and fall of the sun), things are only remembered in long chunks of time... Your brain starts defining the timing of events in broad terms like "during the cold spell with fog" or "that sunny day on the mountain road" or "before we met Vincenzo". I am never able to recall "oh yeah, last Tuesday!" or "two weeks ago we did x y and Z". Individual stories do, however, come out of the woodwork in vivid detail once a spark is created. Luckily, traveling with a partner allows you to bounce the memories back and forth between you to recreate each scene to the T. The details of the memories are so searing and real because while living the ramble-travel, you are fully immersed in each moment (at least that's the goal), your brain subconsciously lapping up each new turn in the road with amazing childlike curiosity.

I highly recommend ramble-travel anytime you can break away and commit to simply blowing with the wind. Sure, all the famous sites may not be fit in without a well-planned itinerary, but millions of people have seen the famous sites. Free yourself to take the opportunities that are opened up when you dont have a train, plane, or show to catch. Like being invited to make pizza dough with a 4th generation Italian chef because you were chatting him up and had time to kill. the rambling can be merely a week or a long weekend, or even one day, but allowing yourself this "loosy goosy" approach to travel can often pay off with truly unique experiences that you will never forget.

An example of this happened for us when we rolled into Palermo, Sicily completely unannounced and without a plan on a rainy night (the 8th in a row for us). Our goal to take a ship to valencia, Spain was trounced when we arrived at the port to be informed that the one ship of the week was cancelled due to dangerously stormy seas...rare for such a big ship. So the scramble began, and we ended up at a lovely hostel for a wonderful 12 euro per night where we made some new friends from Norway who were studying there. As we checked out the night life of the cool port town of Palermo with our new Northern friends, we realized that the misfortune of a cancelled ship turned into a sweet chance. Take a day's tour of the legendary Palermo with a "behind the scenes" city tour designed around the true heartbeat of the city and culture, not simply the tourist sites. We learned all about the melting pot flavor of Palermo, centered between northern Africa, Italy, and the rest of Europe, and vitally important to thousands of years of commerce in the region. We also got to talk straight about the Mafia's involvement in Sicily, which essentially governs itself autonomously from the Italian government. Is the Mafia actually real and powerful here? Why do you think the government of a powerful top-ten worldwide nation would leave Sicily alone and let it rule itself?? Yes, the Mafia is present, and are involved in everything from world politics to providing water and other utilities to Sicilian citizens... Just to name one region.

We finished our time in Italy just in just to miss 6ft of snow in some areas as far south as Rome!" The 60 year winter" they are calling it. The plan to continue pedaling north up the Tyrrenian sea coast after Sicily had to be changed... With half of Italy shut down for days in paralyzingly snow and cold, and with my knee giving me sure signs that I better rest it and evaluate my body mechanics before riding more long days, we looked to the weather radar for the most consistent spot for sun in the Mediterrenean... Costa Blanca Spain (Valencia and Alicante receive 320 days of sun per year)

Traveling long distances by boat at 25 mph truly gives you the feeling that you are changing your surroundings drastically. You chug along in the ocean blue, rolling with the waves, only occasionally passing a blip of land on the horizon...a remote, rocky island maybe, before you arrive in a completely new culture on a new day. A combination of two boat rides , 20 hrs each, brought us to Barcelona, Spain. Our second boat ride, we were 2 of 11 total passengers on a huge 9-story retired cruise ship. The experience was funny, as the drained pools and hot tubs, abandoned show-tune auditoriums, and deck-top sun loungers tell the story of a more prosperous time in this boat's cruising days. We were blessed with a private cabin, complete with separate beds (quite new and refreshing for us), and a nice shower. I guess the shipping company felt for us, being 2 of 11, as we literally had a personal barista, piano dance hall, and friendly concierge at our service. Thanks crew!

We are now in an Oasis of rest, rejuvenation, and inspiration at the Orange House in Finestrat, Spain. The Orange House is an adventure ranch in the foothills of the rocky limestone cliffs famous in this area. The whole concept of the place centers around a community approach to active adventure.. everyone pitches in to keep up the superbly entertaining property which is equipped with guesthouses, cabins, live chickens who lay morning eggs, dozens of friendly dogs, delicious orange grove, communal kitchen, and local insight into the best places to bike, climb, hike, and rock out! Our contribution of a few hours of chores per day allows us use of it all free of charge, and separate, cozy tent spots in the orange grove. Breakfast in bed?? I can reach the days finest citrus from my tent door :) A whole tent to myself?? This is starting to sound like a luxury vacation all of a sudden.... Careful.

I am very excited to have found this bustling community of adventurers. We are among about 30 ramblers who are either paying guests here to rock climb the Spanish crags for a week, folks who liked this place so much they found themselves here for a decade or more, or like-minded young'ns like ourselves looking to adventure and stretch the euro.

The next chapter in our traveling cuisine schoolbook will surely include Spanish Iberico ham, aged for more than 2 years its own fat, paella dishes filled with daily catch and spices from the sea, and a new type of pastry that rivals even the Italian brioche of our past month. The first stop in Alicante at 6am this morning after an overnight bus of no sleep? The open air market of course, the #1 way to learn a culture is to walk the street market. Traveling with a chef in training is wonderful...I've really developed a deeper appreciation and understanding of good food and drink learning from Chris. And all on a bike bum budget! Brilliant! (as the English climbers would say here).

Special thanks to Ashley, who rolled out of bed at 4am to be our personal tour guide of her gorgeous city of study abroad.

While stationary for now, feel like the rambling fun is just beginning! Thanks to all you lovely people caring to read. :)

CM

2 comments:

  1. Fascinating stories! Sounds like Spain may be my next vacation. What's it cost to keep a boat there?

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  2. Your life is incredible. So happy to see you living it up! Miss ya!

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